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    CHOOSING A DOUBLE EDGE SAFETY RAZOR

    Posted by Ben ·

    Choosing a double edge safety razor

    Read time: 3 minutes

    Navigating the world of double edge safety razors can seem daunting. From 1-, 2-, or 3-piece designs to the nuances of open versus closed combs and the choice between straight or slant bars, the options are extensive. This guide is designed to show you how to choose a safety razor that meets your personal shaving needs. Its size, shape, and weight are pivotal in distinguishing one razor from another, influencing the shave's quality and comfort.

    UNDERSTANDING RAZOR TYPES

    Straight or Slant Bar:

    • Straight Bar: Offers a predictable and comfortable shave. Its blade alignment at right angles to the handle suits most users, making it a staple in quality double edge razors.
    • Slant Bar: Holds the blade with a twist, adding stiffness and a slicing action that cuts through facial hair more efficiently, often favoured by those with coarse hair or seeking fewer passes.

    Razor Construction: 1-, 2-, or 3- Piece

    • The construction affects how the blade is secured but has minimal impact on shave quality. Two and three-piece razors are more common, offering easy blade replacement and cleaning. Butterfly (1-piece) razors provide convenience with their twist-to-open mechanism.

    Comb Type: Open or Closed

    • Closed Comb: Features grooves or a bar that protects the skin, ideal for regular shavers and those with sensitive skin.
    • Open Comb: Designed with teeth to guide hair towards the blade, excelling at cutting through longer or denser facial hair.

    Adjustable Razors:

    • Allow customization of blade exposure and aggressiveness, catering to a wide range of skin types and shaving preferences. Perfect for those seeking a personalized shaving experience.

    CHOOSING YOUR RAZOR

    For those new to wet shaving, finding the best safety razor for beginners is crucial to a comfortable and safe shaving experience. Your choice should be influenced by several factors, including your skin type, hair density, and shaving frequency. To simplify this process, we've categorized the razors into distinct types, each suited to different preferences and experience levels.

    Straight Bar Razors

    Ideal for beginners and those with sensitive skin, straight bar razors offer a straightforward and gentle shaving experience. They maintain the blade at a consistent angle, reducing the risk of nicks and irritation.

    • Recommended Straight Bar Razors:

    Slant Bar Razors

    Slant bar razors introduce a twist to the blade, providing a slicing action that can efficiently cut through coarse beard hair. This type is favoured by those seeking a closer shave with fewer passes, though it may require some experience to use comfortably.

    • Recommended Slant Bar Razors:

    Additional Considerations:

    Handle Length and Weight: The size and heft of your razor can significantly impact your shaving experience. Heavier razors glide more easily, reducing the need for added pressure, while the handle length should complement the size of your hands for optimal control.

    Aggressiveness: The aggressiveness of a razor is determined by how much of the blade is exposed and the gap between the blade and the safety bar. Those new to safety razors may start with a less aggressive razor to minimize irritation.

    • Adjustable Razors for Customized Aggressiveness:
      • Merkur Progress: Features adjustable settings to cater to a wide range of skin and beard types.
      • Rockwell 6C and Rockwell 6S: Offers six levels of adjustability, making it versatile for different shaving preferences.

    Understanding these aspects of double-edge safety razors will help you make an informed choice that suits your shaving style and needs. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced wet shaver, there's a razor that's perfect for you.

    CONCLUSIONS & KIT SELECTION

    Finding the right double edge safety razor involves matching it to your shaving habits and skin type. Understanding the basics can significantly improve your shaving experience. For a simplified selection process, our ready-to-go kits offer a range of options tailored to various needs and preferences.

    These kits are perfect for both newcomers and seasoned shavers, providing an easy way to experiment with different razors to find your ideal match. Explore our curated selections designed to enhance your wet shaving journey.

    Beard & Blade Starter Safety Razor Shaving Kit Beard & Blade Starter Safety Razor Shaving Kit
    Beard & Blade Starter Safety Razor Shaving Kit Beard & Blade
    $89.00
    Beard & Blade Essentials Safety Razor Shaving Kit Beard & Blade Essentials Safety Razor Shaving Kit
    Beard & Blade Essentials Safety Razor Shaving Kit Beard & Blade
    $149.00
    Beard & Blade Complete Safety Razor Shaving Kit Beard & Blade Complete Safety Razor Shaving Kit
    Beard & Blade Complete Safety Razor Shaving Kit Beard & Blade
    $199.00

    WHAT'S NEXT?

    Armed with your ideal safety razor, the next step is mastering the art of shaving. Check out our tutorials and tips to make the most of your new tool, ensuring a smooth, close shave every time.

    49 comments

    49 comments

    Hey Mark, happy you found us! :)

    First off, I’d point you in the direction of our how-to guide for shaving with a safety razor: https://www.beardandblade.com.au/blogs/academy/how-to-shave-with-a-safety-razor

    We have a short video and blog post that cover all the main considerations for enjoying a smooth shave without nicks and irritation.

    In your particular case, I’d firstly ensure that you’re always shaving with the direction of hair growth. Facial hair can grow sideways and even in swirl patterns around the neck, so be sure to pay attention to your own stubble patterns before you begin shaving.

    Secondly, if you’re not already, consider using a quality shaving cream such as Taylor of Old Bond Street’s Jermyn St Sensitive shaving cream. You’ll need to lather it with a brush for best results, and you can find both items right here on our site. Quality shaving creams not only improve razor glide, but also help to soothe and protect the skin, cutting down on irritation.

    Thirdly, I recommend picking up one of our Beard & Blade Double Edge Blade Kits. We include a range of brands to help you find the right blade for you. You’d be surprised at the difference in sharpness and smoothness between the various brands once you’ve tried them. It’s also important to recognise that each brand of blades works slightly differently depending on the razor with which it’s used.

    Finally, grab yourself an alum block (also available here on our store) for use as a post-shave. Running one of these wonder stones over the skin after shaving will sting a little, but they are amazing at sealing any small nicks and irritated hair follicles that you’ll know as razor bumps.

    I certainly think a safety razor can work well for and hopefully these extra tips help!

    Adriano - Beard & Blade Staff on

    Hey guys,
    Just after some advice regarding safety razors.

    In an attempt to cure ‘shaving rash’, I bought a Muhle safety razor and blades from shavershop. Whilst my cheeks were baby smooth, I managed to slice myself to shreds on the neck and jaw. I shave daily for work.

    I have rough skin, which cartridges just seem to irritate. Electric is worse.

    I currently look like i’ve been dragged through some barbed wire!

    Should I retry the safety razor, or just give up?

    Regards
    Mark

    Mark on

    Hi Kent, thanks for your comment!

    Most chrome-finished razors are chrome-plated zinc alloy, with some (particularly those from Parker) being chrome-plated brass. With normal use and proper rinsing and drying after use, these chrome-plated razors should last for many years without any loss of the chrome plating.

    Drops onto hard surfaces can of course scuff and scratch the plating, which is to be expected.

    As you might imagine, the advantage of stainless steel razors (Rockwell 6S, Rex Ambassador) is the addtional durability compared to plated zinc alloy. Like-for-like, stainless steel is also a heavier metal, which some people prefer.

    In terms of air travel, the razor itself can be carried onto the plane without issue. However, the razor blades will need to be kept in your checked luggage.

    I hope that helps!

    Adriano - Beard & Blade Staff on

    I purchased the starter kit December last year and the plastic threaded shaft broke through so I want to replace it with a metal design. What are the chrome models made from? Is solid chrome, chrome plated steel or chrome plated brass? If chrome plated does it ever come off? I notice there are stainless steel models, what is the advantage of stainless steel? On a different note Can I take DE razor and blades through airport security for carry on luggage?

    Kent on

    Hi Adrian, thanks for your question! The best way to avoid nicks when using a double edge razor is to choose a razor with a mild or medium level of aggressiveness. This includes very popular models like the Edwin Jagger DE89, Merkur 34C and Muhle R89, as well as adjustable razors such as the Rockwell 6C.

    Secondly, it’s important to test out a few different blade brands to find the ones that work best for you. While Feather blades are the sharpest in the world, for some they can be a little too sharp and lead to more nicks than some others such as Astra.

    In terms of technique, always complete the first pass shaving with the direction of hair growth, and only apply gentle pressure — letting the razor do most of the work.

    I hope those tips help you enjoy a great shave when you make the switch!

    Adriano - Beard & Blade Staff on

    I used a double edge razor many years ago, but used to always nick myself. I now use cartridge razors with shaving soap or cream.
    To reduce my plastic waste I would like to use a double edge razor again, but worry about constantly nicking myself again. How can I avoid this?

    Adrian on

    Hey Daren, appreciate the question! As with cartridge razors, you’ll need to pay some attention to that area when shaving with a DE safety razor, but you should definitely be able to enjoy a great shave.

    The key to a smooth, comfortable shave with a DE razor is not applying too much pressure and letting the weight of the razor and sharpness of the blade do most of the work.

    I hope that helps!

    Adriano - Beard & Blade Staff on

    Hi,

    I have a scar on the middle of my chin just at the apex between my face and neck. I nick the scar about 3% or so of the time with a standard multi-blade razor (typically this happens when I am going fast and not paying close attention to that area).

    I have never used a safety razor before but am highly considering moving over. Am I going to find the scar highly problematic with a safety razor? How would you recommend I best deal with the scar when using a safety razor.

    Thanks,
    Daren

    Daren on

    Hi Alex, thanks for your question! We agree that the best shaves are had with a traditional double edge razor.

    To my knowledge, there are currently no adjustable butterfly razors in mass production. Rockwell Razors (from Canada) is currently in the pre-release of one such razor, which they’ve named the Model T though it’s not a model we currently have in our range.

    If you can overlook the butterfly aspect, we have a number of adjustable DE razors that I’m sure you’ll enjoy shaving with. You can check those out here: https://www.beardandblade.com.au/collections/double-edge-razors/type_adjustable

    Adriano - Beard & Blade Staff on

    When I first started shaving, about 55 yrs ago I tried numerous different razors but settled on a one piece (butterfly) design adjustable double edge razor. It would take any of the double edge blades although I mostly used Wilkinson Sword.
    I have used electric now for many years but am going back to wet shaving which I prefer and which gives a better result and feel.
    Does anyone now make a one piece (butterfly) design adjustable razor?

    Alex Crandon on

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